Luxury label acknowledges Indian roots of footwear design after backlash

Italian luxury fashion label Prada has said it acknowledges the Indian roots of its new footwear line, days after the design sparked a controversy in India.

The sandals, showcased at the Milan Fashion Week last week, had an open-toe braided pattern that closely resembled the traditional Kolhapuri sandals made in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka.

Prada described the sandals as “leather footwear” but did not mention its Indian origins, prompting backlash and allegations of cultural appropriation in India.

Responding to the controversy, Prada told the BBC in a statement that it recognises that the sandals are inspired by traditional Indian footwear.

A Prada spokesperson said that the company has “always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions”, adding that it was “in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture on this topic”. This is a prominent industry trade body in the state.

Last week, its chief had written to the brand, saying the design was commercialised without crediting the artisans who have preserved its heritage for generations.

Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s head of Corporate Social Responsibility, responded to his letter saying that the sandals were “at an early stage of design”, according to Reuters.

He also said that Prada was open to a “dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans” and the company would organise follow-up meetings to discuss this further.

Named after a city in Maharashtra where they are made, Kolhapuri sandals trace their roots back to the 12th Century.

Made from leather and sometimes dyed in natural colours, the traditional handcrafted sandals are sturdy and well-suited to India’s hot climate.

They were awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Indian government in 2019.

According to the World Trade Organisation, a geographical indication tag credits a good or product as having originated from a certain region or place, and is considered a mark of authenticity.

Following the controversy, many artisans in Kolhapur said they were saddened by Prada’s use of the design without giving due credit.

“These sandals are made with the hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur. They should be named after Kolhapur. Don’t take advantage of others’ labour,” Prabha Satpute, a Kolhapuri artisan, told BBC Marathi.

The sandals cost a few hundreds rupees in India but Prada’s premium pricing angered some.

Industrialist Harsh Goenka highlighted this, saying the local artisans barely make any money for the same hand-made products. “They lose, while global brands cash in on our culture,” he said.

This is not the first time that global brands have been accused to appropriating Indian traditional products without crediting their roots.

At the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, Gucci described a sari worn by Bollywood star Alia Bhatt as a gown, sparking backlash.

Earlier in May, a popular TikTok trend was criticised for calling dupatta, a traditional South Asian scarf, a Scandinavian scarf.

In Kolhapur, however, some said the move had instilled a sense of pride in them.

“Artisans are happy that someone is recognising their work,” Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More told Reuters.

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